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Popcorn-light chiffon and lace ball dresses featured in Dior's SS17 couture show Credit: David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock It was wonderful. From the arrow-sharp, slimmed-down Dior Bar jackets to popcorn-light chiffon and lace ball dresses, it was pretty enough to make a Dickensian heroine swoon, but with none of the cloying coating one might have feared. Making a floor-length, flesh-coloured ruched gown look nonchalant and as far from a pair of festoon blinds as the sleekest electronic blinds, is a special kind of alchemy. Scattering embroideries of the artist Claude Lalannes delicate sculptures and Christian Diors beloved horoscope symbols (like that arch modernist Coco Chanel, he was hopelessly endearingly superstitious) across the palest satin full skirts and making it seem modern, splicing velvet with tulle and making it lightthis only happens when the designer knows exactly what she is about, and how to communicate it. Credit: Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock At Valentino, where Maria Grazia Chiuri previously worked before joining Dior late last Summer , she designed, along with her long-standing collaborator Pier Paolo Picciolo (he stayed there when she moved to Paris) intensely romantic, airily constructed eveningwear. Diors CEO Sidney Toledano, who appointed her, must have hoped shed bring that magic to Dior, which has had a patchy time on the red carpet recently, and so it will surely prove. Lucky, lucky Kirsten Dunst, the only Hollywood face at yesterdays show. She may get first pick. For those who dont require much in the way of floor-length jewelled tulle, the daywear was even more satisfying. I really wanted to achieve the dream of Dior, but also something women could wear, says Chiuri. She opened with black tailoring, a Dior cornerstone, but never more contemporary looking and streamlined.

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